Inspiration

I have been more than fortunate to be literally immersed in a world filled with inspiring people during my whole career. People that lift you and make you reach for ever higher goals. To be called inspirational is obviously an honor, but, in fact, it is far more humbling. To be inspiring you have had to be inspired. You stand on the shoulders of so many.

Needless to say, I was more than flattered and honored to be named to the “Wine’s Most Inspirational People 2021” list in their article:

Craig Camp: Leading the Way for Vineyard Rejuvenation from Conventional to Biodynamic Farming

I have been deeply involved in fine wine, both the business and making of it, for almost four decades. The people that have inspired me are too many to count, but I will name a few anyway.

Mentors like Becky Wasserman, Christopher Cannan, Neil and Maria Empson, Barry and Audrey Sterling, and Angelo Gaja introduced me to the wines of the world. Don Clemens and Scott Larsen first showed me how special a wine could be as they shared their best bottles with me. Then there are those inspirational people I grew alongside, winemakers like Tony Soter, Cathy Corison, Richard Sanford, Josh Jensen, Cecil DeLoach, Fred Fisher, Joy Sterling, Dick Ward, and David Graves, Manuel Marchetti, Andrea Sottimano, Tino Colla, Andrea Constanti and Dominque Lafon. Sharing their voyage, even in a small way, continues to inspire me every day.

Inspiration also comes from younger, energetic people who are making a new future in wine, many of whom I have had the honor to work alongside. Winemakers like Thomas Houseman, Jeff Keene, Tony Rynders, Nate Wall, and James Cahill, viticulturists like Jason Cole, and marketing and salespeople like Kim McLeod, Nadia Kinkade, Meg Ordaz, Nate Winters, and Ashley Wells. Then there is Paul Mabray, the pioneer that takes all the arrows while driving winery marketing technology forward for the entire industry.

Inspiration is a continuum. One cannot inspire without being inspired. It is a debt that can only be repaid by paying it forward. The most inspiring people don't set out to be inspiring. They just show up every day and do the work. That's the most inspiring thing of all.

The Space Between the Notes

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Recently, while tasting an old vine cinsault from Chile it occurred to me that the moments I enjoyed most about this delicate wine were those that I could not easily grasp. A long time ago, I realized I want some space in my wines. Space for me. Many wines fill all those spaces and leave nothing left to your imagination. They fill every space with their own noise leaving nothing for you to think about. I don't want a wine to complete my sentences for me.

That seems to be the goal of so many wines these days. They want to take all the work of tasting away from you. Of course, in the process, they take most of the pleasure away. This is the season for "top 100" lists from all the major media. Heck, one is even making top 100 lists by country. You can be sure that these lists are chock full of wines that require little participation on your part. Just cough up the big bucks to buy them, pull the cork, pour into the right Riedel, take a sip, and the rest is all taken care of for you. Thoughtless winemaking creates wines that require no thought. It is an easy recipe.

Of course, most of the winemakers that make these loud wines are far from thoughtless as it takes substantial technical skill to execute the manipulations required to make these wines. Oddly, it requires serious technical skills to make all highly manipulated wines be they mass-produced million case brands or highly allocated unicorns, costing hundreds of dollars a bottle. It is surprising how similar the winemaking process is for these two extremes of the wine marketing world. Obviously, the cheaper wines come from lesser vineyards with much higher yields per acre, but the farming itself and the extensive use of cultured yeasts and a myriad of other additives makes them soul mates.

The other thing they have in common is they require little of your attention. For inexpensive wines, this is a well-deserved point of pride – take a gulp and enjoy your dinner. With expensive wines it is more paternalistic – they know what makes a wine great so you don't need to worry about it. They've punched all the buttons – new oak, big fruit, heavy bottles – so just take a gulp and enjoy your dinner. These wines remind me of what the doctor said to the woman about to give birth in Monty Python's Meaning of Life skit "The Miracle of Birth." When she asks what she should do, he replies, "nothing, you're not qualified."

Overwhelming your senses is not art. If you are listening to Mozart and keep turning up the volume eventually, the beauty of the music is lost and just becomes more noise.

The wines that are most interesting to drink are not seamless. It is in those seams that the compelling moments live. Those spaces make the experience of wine your own. I feel cheated by wines that take those spaces away from me by insisting on filling in all the blanks themselves.

“Music is the space between the notes,” said French composer Claude Debussy. In the spaces of a wine are the notes that make it unique.

Interview on the Organic Wine Podcast

I spent a entertaining hour discussing biodynamics regenerative agriculture at Troon Vineyard and life in Oregon’s Applegate Valley with Adam Huss on his Organic Wine Podcast.

Today we take a trip to the country to meet Craig Camp, the General Manager of Troon Vineyard in the Applegate Valley AVA of Southwest Oregon. Troon is a certified organic and biodynamic winery and estate vineyard that focuses on blends made from the grapes of Southern France, which seem to do extremely well in this northern area with a hot Mediterranean climate.

Craig was brought in to regenerate every aspect of Troon, and we had a very enjoyable conversation about everything that is happening there that he has helped implement. From soil testing and replanting and staff education to sheep dogs to organic vegetable gardens and more, even from the outside it’s exciting to hear about what he’s doing, and you can hear the excitement in the way he talks about it.

Craig has a personal story in regards to wine that I can relate to as well. He fell in love with wine far away from where it was grown, and over the course of his life and several career changes, he worked backwards toward an understanding of how the finest wine begins in a healthy, probiotic soil.
— Adam Huss

Wine Photos: Planting the Biodynamic Preparations at Troon Vineyard

One of our main goals in practicing biodynamics in our pursuit of regenerative agriculture is to minimize inputs from off the farm. So we are planting and using the components to make the biodynamic preparations from plants that we grow ourselves.

Winemaker Nate Wall and assistant winemaker Sarah Thompson planting valerian to make biodynamic preparation 507 in the Troon Vineyard biodynamic preparations garden and area. We also make our BP 500 an 501 at this spot.

Winemaker Nate Wall and assistant winemaker Sarah Thompson planting valerian to make biodynamic preparation 507 in the Troon Vineyard biodynamic preparations garden and area. We also make our BP 500 an 501 at this spot.

Two Conferences, Two Biodynamics

Winemaker Nate Wall and consultant Andrew Beedy make Biodynamic Barrel compost at Troon Vineyard

Winemaker Nate Wall and consultant Andrew Beedy make Biodynamic Barrel compost at Troon Vineyard

In a time that seems far-far away these days, within a few months of each other, I attended two biodynamic conferences. One was the Biodynamic Wine Conference in San Francisco and the other was the Biodynamic Conference in Portland. While the names of these two conferences only differed by one word, the conferences themselves were worlds apart. 

The Demeter sponsored Biodynamic Wine Conference was all about down-to-earth biodynamic and organic farming. The sessions were about composting, soil microbiome, and building mycorrhizal communities. It was also about asking questions. What tenets of biodynamics worked and which didn’t? It was an excellent conference that both inspired and informed. A few months later, I attended the Biodynamic Association’s Biodynamic Conference and found myself in another world - literally another world. Scanning the conference schedule I was hard-pressed to find sessions with the practical focus of the previous conference. However, there were sessions like, “How to Invite Elementals onto Your Farm”, “How Inner Development Affects Our Tasks on the Farm” and “5 Solutions for Land-Based Wealth Distribution”. I discovered there were two worlds of biodynamics and they were worlds apart. 

I came to biodynamics the same way most wine people do. At first, I was extremely skeptical, but time-after-time I would taste a wine that impressed me and time-after-time they were biodynamic wines. Skepticism slowly turned to curiosity, then turned to conviction. As I met more biodynamic winegrowers I was impressed by their practical approach and commitment to soil health as the foundation of healthy vines. Healthy vines in healthy soils give you the best chance of making worthwhile wines. 

One of the wines I loved was Nicolas Joly’s Coulée de Serrant, but I found his writings on the subject too esoteric. Then there was Rudolf Steiner himself. After a few attempts to read his writings, I was quickly cured of any desire to try again. After all, he died in 1925 and most of the agricultural writings I read are more likely to have been written in this century. Agricultural science has evolved a bit in the last 95 years. So, as I pursued biodynamics I relied more on working winegrowers than the writings of a long-dead philosopher, who was not even a farmer. The agricultural lectures, on which biodynamics was based, was a minor part of Steiner’s work. He only participated reluctantly and there were only eight lectures given over ten days. He died the next year.

The two conferences I attended really illuminated these two faces of biodynamics for me - the anthroposophical, “spiritual-science” side and, what I call, practical biodynamics. As I look at biodynamics, I see a framework that clearly has an effect on wine quality. We work within that framework as, at this time, we simply don’t know what parts of that framework work from those that don’t. It is our responsibility to add to this body of knowledge so that the next generation can build on the best practices and discard the worthless ones. To achieve that goal, at Troon Vineyard we are working with academics from Oregon State, the University of Oregon and Linfield College and with Biome Makers to build a database on the transitions in our soils, compost, plants, fermentations and wines as we convert from conventional to biodynamic regenerative agriculture. You can be a biodynamic farmer and not be a follower of Steiner.

For obvious reasons, the media loves to focus on the Steiner side of biodynamics. Let’s face it, it makes better copy than farmers simply seeking the secrets of naturally building the microbiome of their soils. Some writers don’t just focus on the more picturesque parts of the Steiner side of biodynamics, but go on the attack and lump all biodynamic farmers into the anthroposophical basket. A recent article, The problem with biodynamics: myths, quacks and pseudoscience by Joshua Dunning is just the latest in this group. On his site, he notes that he, “holds an undergraduate degree in Economics and Finance and a postgraduate MSc in Supply Chain Management from Aston University. My field of expertise lies in continuous improvement, I have worked for leading discount-supermarket chains, consulted to start-up tech companies, and am now employed by a leading UK automotive manufacturer.” I think we can assume this means he probably is not a farmer. As someone who spends most of his days on a biodynamic farm, I’d like to address some of the points he makes in his article. 

“My somewhat fierce opposition to Steiner and his quackery”  I don’t disagree much here. There is much not to like about Steiner. I would point out that in 1924 there was no shortage of quacks, many of whom were respected medical professionals. I’m no defender of Steiner, but judging people from one hundred years ago by today’s standards is difficult at best. However, Steiner’s racism can’t be ignored.

It seems even more unlikely that held static and unchanged that the proposed process would continue to offer the most effective form of agriculture for many decades to come. Most of what we call biodynamics today was created after Steiner died in 1925, just a year after he gave the lectures. It can be argued that Ehrenfried Pheiffer is the real father of biodynamics and it was his book Bio-Dynamic Farming that launched that concept to the world in 1938. After Pheiffer, there is a long list of people that have contributed to what is today known as biodynamics. Steiner himself would barely recognize biodynamics as practiced on commercial farms today. By the way, he probably never heard the word biodynamics.

“An example being the use of animal byproducts in biodynamics; why is the use of the horn insisted upon? Would a synthetic product be better? Why is this is not tested?” Actually there have been ongoing tests and some have been promising. At this point, the horns have been the most reliable, but it is reasonable to assume that someday they could be replaced by other containers. There is actually pressure from vegans to find alternatives. That said, the idea of a synthetic product runs contrary to the concept of building a natural system. We’re trying to use less plastic, not more. Besides, as the goal of making BP 500 is to collect fungi and bacteria, it is not unreasonable to assume that they would prefer natural materials.

“However, the advocation of pseudoscience erodes public understanding and appreciation for good science, discredits the work of serious scientists and makes it harder to encourage critical thinking.” True, except that biodynamics is now the focus of a lot of research. I would refer you to the scientists studying our vineyard. The fact is that soil microbiome and the mycorrhizal system is the hot topic of modern agri-science. Now that big money is involved, there is great interest in discovering those secrets and due to that, we will know a lot more about biodynamics in the coming decades. 

“It is advised that particular preparations are stirred for an hour in order to not only dissolves the substances but ‘more importantly, release the dynamic forces” We also make compost tea, a well-proven agricultural tool. To make that compost tea, you brew it for 24 hours with active aeration that encourages the microbiological life before application. Stirring BD 500 for one hour does exactly the same thing. One side of the biodynamic community may focus on “forces” but the other side is focused on microbiology. We also believe this releases dynamic forces, but those forces are fungi and bacteria.

“It’s difficult to find reliable estimates of the financial costs of converting to biodynamic, even trickier is establishing the cost variation between working organic and biodynamic.” Actually, the organic part is far more expensive than the biodynamic part. The biggest expense is the farm equipment - mechanical weed control, etc., but that is also required for organics. Compost tea brewers are expensive, but are not part of the biodynamic system. Compost is very expensive and time-consuming, but that too is part of organics. The actual biodynamic preparations are very inexpensive to produce. You have to be organic to be biodynamic, so the additional cost and time to be biodynamic are not significant. 

“However, there were no differences in several other variables measured, including pH, cation exchange capacity, moisture content, and ammonium, potassium, and phosphate levels. In contrast, researchers found that biodynamic preparations reduced both compost pile temperature and nitrate concentration.” The main difference between standard compost and biodynamic is that the biodynamic process does have lower pile temperatures. In fact, biodynamic compost is not considered compost by the USDA for this reason. The lower temperatures create the conditions for more robust microbiology in the compost, which would be reduced by the higher temperatures. The faulty thinking here is that the compost is used as a fertilizer, which is not its primary function. The goal of biodynamic compost and BP 500 for that matter, is to rebuild soil microbiome. It is primarily a probiotic, not a fertilizer. Vines do not require nutrient-rich soils. With a well established mycorrhizal community, they can easily extract all of their requirements without additional fertilizers.

“No differences were found in weed control using preparations 500– 508 or in cover, species richness, diversity, and evenness of weed species” Weed control? The preparations have nothing to do with weed control. Weed control is attained by mechanical methods and cover crop management.

“Addition of biodynamic preparations not only increases labour and materials costs but also widens the ecological footprint of the practice because of higher machinery use for applying the preparations.” As pointed out above, the actual costs of biodynamics over organics are minimal. As we are able to apply the biodynamic preparations 500 and 501 (the only BP preparations directly applied in the vineyard) using a small ATV and sprayer instead of a tractor it actually reduces tractor passes, soil compaction, and our carbon footprint. We can further reduce tractor passes by including barrel compost teas with our powdery mildew sprays. 

“On a total of 8 pages in Demeter’s biodynamic certification document, the regulator makes reference to cosmic influence and rhythm.” The American Demeter certification recommends trying to follow these rhythms - if possible. While it may be possible in your garden at home, it is not on a large commercial farm. In our view, the cycles of the moon are more a timepiece than a cosmic influence. These were the tools that ancient farmers had and they used the moon as a clock in the sky based on successes and failures that they had in the past. Perhaps there is a small edge to be gained here so, if possible, we’ll pick those days. If there is any chance of making better wine, no matter how small, we’re willing to give it a shot. Practically, it is impossible to run a 100-acre farm based on the moon and stars. If something has to get done we do it, no matter where the moon or planets are in the sky. There is only one body in the sky that totally guides our work - the Sun.

Mr. Dunning was inspired to write his article by his participation in a webinar panel. As useful as these events and conferences can be, I would suggest he spend some time on a commercial farm actually practicing biodynamics. He may well find that the actual practices don’t always line up well with the myths. 

I agree that there are many ideas that have crept into biodynamics over the decades that strain credulity and science. Indeed, pseudo-science and quackery are issues that I believe have held back the adoption of the many aspects of biodynamics worth investigating. Certainly, Steiner and devotion to him as a spiritual leader is also holding back biodynamics. The fact is that Steiner was anti-alcohol and the first vineyards that started farming biodynamically in Europe were rejected by the biodynamic community and for that reason formed their own organization - Biodyvin. I often think that may also become necessary in the United States.

Biodynamics is a process, not dogma. It is a search to find the natural systems that make your farm unique. Each individual farm has to find its own way. The structure of biodynamics is just a starting place. The ultimate expression of biodynamics is when you develop the ideal system for your farm. That system may not contain elements of what is known as biodynamics today and will almost certainly include your own discoveries. I have always considered attaining our Demeter Biodynamic® certification as the beginning, not the finish line. Perhaps certification itself is something you eventually go beyond as you discover your own answers.

There are many mysteries about how the microbiome of the soil works in harmony with plants. The science here is still young and much is not understood. To me, biodynamics honors those things we do not yet understand. Because we are still learning, it is not productive to label all things not understood as some sort of voodoo. We should be humbled by our ignorance and find joy in what we learn about nature as it is in that knowledge that we will find answers to so many of today’s issues. Some, but not all of those answers can be found in biodynamics.

I believe in elementals. They are the fungi and bacteria that make our soils live.            

Fun in the Cellar, Fun in the Bottle - Piquette!

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It was fun!

Browsing through my RSS feeds one morning I spotted an article about a type of wine called piquette. What was that? The article was about a piquette being produced by the biodynamic Wild Ark Farm in New York’s Hudson Valley. This, I thought to myself, looks like fun. I forwarded the article to Troon Vineyard’s winemaker, Nate Wall, with a simple note saying exactly that, “this looks like fun!” 

Nate obviously agreed as here we are one year later releasing our own 2019 Troon Vineyard Piquette!. I’m sure you’re asking the same question I had, “what is piquette?”

Only in recent history has wine become an elite product requiring certified sommeliers to guide you through encyclopedic wine lists. In the past, wine grapes were just another agricultural crop that required lots of sweat and delivered little reward. Farmers couldn’t (and still can’t) afford to waste anything. Winemakers would press off their best juice to use for wines they would sell, then re-hydrate the remaining pomace, add some sugar or honey, let it soak, and then ferment that for a daily quaff for their workers and themselves. Light in alcohol and lightly sparkling, piquette was frugal farmer fizz. Piquette is anything but a “serious” wine.

The trick here was that none of us had ever tasted a piquette. That’s a very odd experience as normally we would have tasted dozens of wines made by other producers as we tried to deeply understand a variety or blend before we launched off on our own project. Not this time. Nate put together a plan and off we went. 

That plan was to use the pomace from our whole-cluster pressed white grapes (marsanne and vermentino) and red grapes (tinta roriz, primitivo, tannat) destined for rosé. We also used pomace and juice from another new Troon Vineyard sparkling wine, Pét tanNat, a pét nat made from 100% estate tannat. A relatively small amount of water was added to the pomace that remained in the press and was allowed to soak overnight. Without any additions, we naturally achieved an alcohol of 10.5% - obviously, there was plenty of juice left in the press. Then the pomace was pressed again and the juice was collected in a stainless steel tank, where a native yeast fermentation easily started. When a small amount of sugar still remained in the fermenting juice, we quickly bottled it under crown caps to complete its fermentation in the bottle. What makes this tricky is that you have to bottle this type of sparkling wine right in the middle of harvest - a time of year that is already busy enough! On the day the wine is ready to be bottled, it has to be done right now, tomorrow will be too late. When fermentation completed we did a light disgorgement, only removing the heaviest lees so there is a light haze remaining. As you would expect from the red grape skins, there is a tannic edge to the bright, fruity flavors of our Piquette!, which is very different from our soon to be released pét tanNat. For me, it reminds me of some crazy combination of a fresh peach juice Bellini, cider and Cava - sparkling, bright fresh and fun.

Our 2019 Piquette!, Estate, Applegate Valley was fun to make and is equally fun to drink. What fun is that!

Please watch this video as Troon Vineyard winemaker Nate Wall describes how we made this wine:

Weed Slayer

UPDATE: Since I wrote this in February of 2020, Weed Slayer has been banned by USDA Organic and Demeter Biodynamic® Certifications for containing prohibited ingredients and is now the subject of lawsuits.


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I can’t forget when I first saw the results after we applied a new organic herbicide based on clove oil and molasses called Weed Slayer. Put very simply; it worked too well. It worked like Roundup but smelled like allspice.

In the past, products that were approved to use on a certified organic farm never caused any worry about being too effective. Many barely worked at all. But those days are changing, and the effectiveness of organic vineyard applications is now quite impressive. I tend to worry if an organic product is almost as effective as the chemical options, as there may be something to worry about. Chaos theory is a real thing. There is always the chance that these newly approved organic products are good at one thing, but they are also doing damage in some way we never imagined. 

In the past, certified organic products always seemed to have friendly names...Regalia, Prevont, Clean, BioLink, and so on. Weed Slayer is not a nice name, but it certainly does what its name suggests. A natural plant-based herbicide derived from eugenol, an essential oil of clove, and molasses. How bad can that be? Theoretically, not at all, but you can’t help but worry. One thing for sure, if you apply it at the right time, it works.

Now Weed Slayer is on the fast track as the miracle weed control product for organic agriculture, I can’t but help to be concerned as there is so much we do not know when it comes to the living system of our soils. Everything we introduce is bound to have outcomes that we cannot predict - chaos theory. My concern is that a product that kills weeds (note that weeds are simply plants that grow where we do not want them) so effectively could be very well having an equally devastating impact on the fungi that make our soils live. I have no proof of this, but the microbiome of soil is a very delicate system that is easily disrupted. 

The question we should be asking is, what is so wrong with a few weeds? The solution is not Weed Slayer or finding something even better. The answer is learning to live with weeds. With proper farming, you no longer have weeds, just a cover crop that you have designed. No-till is the best form of weed control in a vineyard because you end up with no weeds. Once the plants surrounding your vines are there because you want them there - magically, the weeds are all gone. 

But nothing happens magically in agriculture. You have to work and plan over the years to achieve your goals. At Troon Vineyard, we are moving towards no-till as quickly as we can. The major impediment we face in moving to no-till is that our older blocks suffer from the Red Blotch virus. While there is yet no absolute proof of the vector that spreads this virus, the leading suspects are leafhoppers. Practicing a full no-till system in the infected blocks could encourage the leafhopper population. We need to take precautions not to spread the virus into our new blocks. So while aggressively working towards no-till in the newly planted blocks, we have to practice a modified approach in the existing blocks. That includes only tilling every other row and mowing. While working this hybrid system, Weed Slayer becomes a necessary evil, but certainly a far lesser evil than Roundup.

It just a few years, we will achieve our goal of no-till agriculture for the entire farm. In my view, the foundation of practicing biodynamics is the regeneration of the natural microbiome of your soils. No-till is the natural partner to biodynamic farming as few things are more disruptive to the mycorrhizal community in your soil than tillage. On top of that is carbon sequestration that no-till farms support. This alone is reason enough to transition your farm to no-till.

It is fascinating to watch how agricultural science is moving towards biodynamics, not away from it. Soil scientists are now focused on the microbiome. Articles on fungi are everywhere. Huge corporate farms profess to be practicing regenerative agriculture, though this is more lip service for marketing reasons. Wineries feel compelled to become “sustainably certified” so they can get a green-sounding logo on their label due to market pressures. The double impacts of academics and market pressure are forcing more-and-more producers to adopt greener methods. But this is not enough, and it is moving too slowly. You are not practicing regenerative agriculture unless you give up chemicals (Roundup being the most famous of these, there are many others), feed your soils via compost, and are working towards no-till. 

For us, using Weed Slayer is temporary. A means to achieve a larger goal. Even something that sounds as benign as clove oil and molasses, and is permitted under CCOF Organic certification, may have a negative effect on everything else that we have been working to achieve. It takes years to rebuild the mycorrhizal communities in your soil, and using anything that can disrupt that is a risk. I am very uncomfortable taking this risk, but the threat from the virus is also a reality. Finding the proper balance is a struggle. 

I am not picking on Weed Slayer here, it is a product produced by people trying to find a safe alternative to Roundup. Certainly, that is a worthwhile endeavor. My point is that all inputs can have unintended consequences. Less is more when it comes to farming. The fewer products we use the better.

Regenerative agriculture is not a goal you achieve, but an ongoing and never-ending process to work in harmony with nature. As we will never know all the secrets that nature is hiding from us, we can only strive to learn what the plants are trying so hard to tell us. We need to learn their language more than they need to learn ours. 

The Troon Vineyard 2019 Harvest Photo Album