Chianti Classico, Riecine, 2003

What a wonderful wine! Earthy and layered with complexity from start to finish. Riecine has become my favorite estate in Chianti and they never fail to deliver an excellent wine. If you want to see what made Chianti famous to begin with taste this wine. The pure character of sangiovese in this wine is a marvel and emphasises how most producers have destroyed the character of this great vine in their wines.

Purity of Purpose

Ying Yang .jpgPurity of purpose is to be admired in all things. In the world of wine, two French wine regions, neither of which make particularly expensive wines, have clearly established themselves as producers of the most versatile and purely rewarding food wines made anywhere. Those regions are Muscadet for white wine and Beaujolais for red. Like a yin and yang wine symbol they both provide a harmonious whole that includes great balance, lively minerality and a palate presence the works on stealth - perhaps not dramatic at first, but by the second glass you are entranced and addicted. They both exhibit the primary requirement that makes a wine compelling. That is that the second glass is far more interesting than the first.

Like all wine regions, most of the wine produced in the Beaujolais region is boring commercial plonk. To make things worse, the region has been cursed by what should have been a blessing. Nouveau Beaujolais, a fun party wine for the winter after the vintage came to define the region, which is so much more. Certainly the amount of great Beaujolais produced is miniscule compared to the amount of industrial wine produced, but the same thing can be said for Napa, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chianti and every wine region of significance in the world. Unfortunately for Beaujolais, their worst wine also became their most famous. 

Yet, like in Muscadet, in Beaujolais there are small producers with outstanding vineyards and a burning passion who create great art that sparkles like stars bringing small points of brilliance to the vast empty darkness of the commercial universe of wine.

Recently two wines brought home this purity of purpose to me. These two Cru Beaujolais are so compelling to drink with a meal that they elevate any dining experience. Both of these wines I matched with a simple herb roasted chicken and the experience was food and wine matching nirvana.

These wines are imported by Kermit Lynch and should be purchased by the case for drinking over the next several years. Better yet, they are both under $25. What is most compelling about both of these wines is that with each sip the volume of pleasure is kicked up a notch and reaching the end of the bottle is a cause for sorrow.

2005 Morgon, Domaine Marcel Lapierre is a svelte beauty, shy at first, it opens into a brilliant balanced whole. A zesty, exotic blend of ripe black fruit and a tightrope of a backbone, that exudes a punchy silkiness and a haunting finish. The 2005 Moulin-a-Vent, Domaine Diochon is simply astounding  with a meal. Racy and elegant with a juicy minerality that is almost electric on the palate. A real marvel of harmony and balance.

Grappa Infused Berry Liqueur

loring_small.jpg“TN: Peevish pinot: Loring 2004 Pinot Noir Brosseau (Chalone) – Red-black fruit, soupy and searingly alcoholic. More like a harsh, grappa-infused berry liqueur than wine, and not a particularly balanced one as well. The next day, however, the alcohol has calmed down somewhat…perhaps a nice sweet rum rather than grappa…which makes it a little less painful to drink. But it’s still profoundly imbalanced. (12/06)”

oenoLogic: TN: Peevish pinot

My tasting notes on big bruiser pinot noir I always felt were lacking the right descriptors, but thanks to Thor Iverson at oenoLogic, I finally know how to describe them!


 

 

Argyle Rocks

argyleextended.jpgOregon’s Argyle Winery continues to provide not only the best values in premium sparking wine, but wines that compete with the world’s finest on a quality basis. However, this time they have outdone themselves on both counts. The 1996 Argyle Extended Tirage Willamette Valley Sparkling Wine is both a stunning sparkling wine and a stunning bargain at $50.

Tirage is the French Champagne term that refers to the time that the wine ages in contact with the lees (the dead yeast cells) in the bottle after the second fermentation that gives sparkling wines its bubbles. This is a process that can add great depth, complexity and texture to fine sparkling wines. “Can” is the operative word here as this is a slow process and the winemaker needs to age the wines for years to attain these attributes.

What makes this wine such a bargain, in addition to its quality, is that while most big brand French Champagnes selling for the same price have not a day more of aging on the lees than the minimum required fifteen months, the Argyle Extended Tirage has been aging on the lees for a full ten years.  Compare a bottle of this wine with big brand Champagne and be prepared to be stunned.

Champagne is no longer what it used to be. The rest of the world has finally not only caught, but surpassed the French. 

Made from 20% pinot noir and 80% chardonnay, this wine offers great freshness and a lively frothy creaminess from the chardonnay and a rich complexity from pinot noir and extended time on the lees. Unfortunately only 584 cases were produced.

Audrey Hepburn

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The only thing I could think of was Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s: unbelievably beautiful and elegant in a simple black formal.

The inspiration for this vision was one sip of pinot noir perfection: 1992 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Laurene, graciously shared by Anne Amie Vineyards winemaker Ron Shea with us at dinner last Saturday night.

A fourteen-year-old Oregon pinot noir may seem a bit risky, but there were apparently no chances taken by DDO when they made this wine. Still vibrant, with clean fresh fruit aromas and flavors, this understated beauty soon opened into a graceful, elegant complexity whose layers teased and enticed all the senses. This kind of harmony and balance is what defines pinot noir at its most seductive.

When you taste the perfection this wine has acquired over time, you can’t help but be concerned about what will happen to the current generation of Oregon wines in the future as their fruit-forward, higher alcohol style will never produce the kind of complexity that this 1992 DDO attainted after fourteen years.

When you look at a picture of Audrey Hepburn from Breakfast at Tiffany’s, a movie made forty-five years ago, time has only enhanced her beauty. The same should go for fine pinot noir.

Bitter Barbera

barbera_vignamartina_pic.jpgI love barbera from Piemonte: racy and bitter with a biting acidity that just sings with food. Therefore it was with great anticipation that I opened a bottle of 2004 Elio Grasso Barbera d’Alba Vigna Martina. On the stove was a pot of boiling water waiting for the fresh spaghetti I just picked up at Pastaworks and a simmering pot of a simple tomato sauce, while on the table awaited some aged Parmigiano Reggiano and a chunk of fresh bread from the excellent Red Fox Bakery. Needless to say I was salivating as I pulled the cork on the barbera. The first sip confused me; where was that barbera bite. I tasted again assuming that I had just missed it, but there was nothing there. This dark ruby wine was full of sweet soft fruit layered with warm vanilla - in other words it was a lot like a merlot. If you insist on all the wines you drink, no matter the variety, taste like merlot - this is the barbera for you. However, if you want a barbera you better look elsewhere. Soft is not what barbera is about.

Always in Motion

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First it started out forward and surprisingly pleasant.

Then it seemed complex and perfect with the meal.

Then it closed down and got tannic.

At first it tasted modern, by the next day it was traditional. 

What makes the best wines interesting is they are always in motion - each sip is a different etude.

Few wines can range more in personality from sip to sip than Barolo and the excellent 2001 Paolo Manzoni Barolo Serralunga fully lives up to that reputation.  While this is a producer that gives more than a tip of the hat to the modern school, here is a  wine that proves you can’t always pigeon hole a wine based only on barrels. In fact, Mazoni uses 500 L. barrels instead of 225 L.  barriques and the results from these larger barrels are very promising both in the Langhe and in Montalcino as many producers in both areas have abandoned small barrels for larger sizes.

Winemaking is an evolutionary process and it is good to see that in the tough world of survival of the fittest that there seems to be a return to terroir movement in winemaking regions throughout the globe.  The barrique craze of the 90’s seems to have lost to the process of natural selection and less intrusive winemaking techniques  are once again becoming the dominate species.