Barbera del Monferrato, Goj, Maria Borio 2004
Maria Borio is rapidly becoming my favorite Barbera producer for the clean authentic beauty of her wines and this zesty Barbera is no exception. It is vivace, or lightly effervescent and this lightly sparkling quality is well-loved in Italy, but has no counterpart here in the USA, so consumers are often confused by such wines. However, there is nothing to be confused about as these wines are all about simplicity and straightforward pleasure. The combination of acidity and effervescence makes such wines extremely refreshing with the rich everyday dishes so common in Northern Italy. I find this wine an absolute delight with pizza and recommend drinking this simple pleasure slightly chilled.
Chianti Classico, Fontodi, 2004
All oak. Where’s the Chianti? Avoid. Buy Monte Antico for a quarter the price and get a better modern Sangiovese.
Bandol, Chateau Jean-Pierre Gaussen, 1999
A year in Provence is not enough when you taste wines like this. Deeply aromatic and earthy with a wonderful layered character unlikely to generate many points, but certain to generate pleasure at the dinner table. Yes, this is a big wine, but not by today’s standards as it sports the weight of a big Bordeaux on the palate and will seem almost delicate to Shiraz drinkers. A top-notch wine that really adds pleasure to a meal.
Barbera Piemonte, Mattei, 2003
The real stuff here and more. Firm and bright without going over the edge and joining the over-juiced efforts jammed out by so many producers today. Certainly there is a lot of fruit here, but it is very balanced with all the characteristic Barbera acidity that any traditional Barbera lover could want. Highly recommended.
Champagne, Brut, Nicolas Feuillatte. NV
Don’t waste you money on this generic effort. You can buy Oregon or California sparkling wines for the same price that offer much more to get excited about. Proof that a name in itself no longer has any importance in an era where top quality wines are produced around the world. As much as I revere Champagne, there is nothing to revere here. Try Oregon’s Argyle for $10 or more less a bottle and you’ll get a far more interesting wine.
Dolcetto Diano d'Alba, Bricco Maiolica, 2003
Brightly fruity and lively with good complexity to boot. A very, very good Dolcetto with none of the excesses so many display today. Drink up!
Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Monile, 2003
A very nice, if not exceptional ripasso. Creamy and smooth with a nice ripeness. No real complexity here, but a very nice drink and a nice Valpolicella. So if you haven’t figured it out yet this wine is nice and that’s about it.
Coteaux du Languedoc, Château La Rogue, Pic Saint Loup, 2003
Pic Saint Loup is probably a tough sell. It’s a shame for in the under $20 category red Lanquedoc wines still offer some of the best value you can find. Just compare this wine, selling at $16 against a California Merlot or Cabernet selling for the same price and you will see there is no contest. Full rich fruit flavors mix on the palate and nose with tar and black licorice to make for a really interesting drink. A great wine for summer cook outs.
Château Puy Arnaud, Côtes de Castillion, 2003
The heat of 2003 was certainly a great year for Bordeaux’s lesser Chateaux and this very nice wine is one of the better values of the vintage. With a structure and aromatic profile that could be nothing but a Bordeaux, this nice wine is sure to please the true Bordeaux lover. Drink over the next 2 to 3 years to take full advantage of the lovely fruit.
Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene, Vincenzo Toffoli, NV
A creamy and delicious sparkling wine with just a touch of sweetness. A charming delight to drink.
Malbec, Tikal, Amorio, Altos de Medoza Argentina, 2004
Winner of the heavy bottle award of 2004. Out of this massive bottle comes a pretty good wine - often a surprise when such pretentious bottles are used. Richly colored with a woody, ripe character that, with a little air time, starts to reveal some real complexity. Going for under $25 a bottle, those who love Napa Cabernet, but can’t stand the price should grab up some bottles of Tikal Amorio, as you are sure to like the style.
Chianti Classico, Rocca di Castagnoli, 2003
A very nice Chianti with a bracing structure balanced by the ripe fruit flavors you’d expect from a sauna of a vintage like 2003. No great complexity, but good solid sangiovese character and true-to-type style. Certainly a much better straight Chianti Classico than some more famous names put in the bottle.
Grignolino d'Asti, Cascina 'Tavign, 2003
Brickish red with not a hint of purple, quite translucent. Lean and mean throughout and all-in-all a very good grignolino. A bit more serious and less light-hearted than most grignolino - but I won’t hold that against it.
Dolcetto di Dogliani, Luigi Einaudi, 2004
Here’s an irresistible explosively fruity Dolcetto with more than enough acidity to balance out its modern styling. Deep purple with mouthwatering fruit flavors and an electric tinge of acidity. A perfect pasta and pizza wine. My mouth waters just writing about this wine.
Barbera d'Alba, Giacomo Conterno, 2003
Well I guess Barbera doesn’t get much better than this. Rich and zesty at the same moment, the ripe dark fruit flavors roll in velvety layers on the nose and palate. However, this richness is balanced by a bright acidity that ties everything together in a lively and complex package. As good as this wine is now, I see no reason to age it.
Drink up and enjoy.