Wine Photos: Planting the Biodynamic Preparations at Troon Vineyard

One of our main goals in practicing biodynamics in our pursuit of regenerative agriculture is to minimize inputs from off the farm. So we are planting and using the components to make the biodynamic preparations from plants that we grow ourselves.

Winemaker Nate Wall and assistant winemaker Sarah Thompson planting valerian to make biodynamic preparation 507 in the Troon Vineyard biodynamic preparations garden and area. We also make our BP 500 an 501 at this spot.

Winemaker Nate Wall and assistant winemaker Sarah Thompson planting valerian to make biodynamic preparation 507 in the Troon Vineyard biodynamic preparations garden and area. We also make our BP 500 an 501 at this spot.

Two Conferences, Two Biodynamics

Winemaker Nate Wall and consultant Andrew Beedy make Biodynamic Barrel compost at Troon Vineyard

Winemaker Nate Wall and consultant Andrew Beedy make Biodynamic Barrel compost at Troon Vineyard

In a time that seems far-far away these days, within a few months of each other, I attended two biodynamic conferences. One was the Biodynamic Wine Conference in San Francisco and the other was the Biodynamic Conference in Portland. While the names of these two conferences only differed by one word, the conferences themselves were worlds apart. 

The Demeter sponsored Biodynamic Wine Conference was all about down-to-earth biodynamic and organic farming. The sessions were about composting, soil microbiome, and building mycorrhizal communities. It was also about asking questions. What tenets of biodynamics worked and which didn’t? It was an excellent conference that both inspired and informed. A few months later, I attended the Biodynamic Association’s Biodynamic Conference and found myself in another world - literally another world. Scanning the conference schedule I was hard-pressed to find sessions with the practical focus of the previous conference. However, there were sessions like, “How to Invite Elementals onto Your Farm”, “How Inner Development Affects Our Tasks on the Farm” and “5 Solutions for Land-Based Wealth Distribution”. I discovered there were two worlds of biodynamics and they were worlds apart. 

I came to biodynamics the same way most wine people do. At first, I was extremely skeptical, but time-after-time I would taste a wine that impressed me and time-after-time they were biodynamic wines. Skepticism slowly turned to curiosity, then turned to conviction. As I met more biodynamic winegrowers I was impressed by their practical approach and commitment to soil health as the foundation of healthy vines. Healthy vines in healthy soils give you the best chance of making worthwhile wines. 

One of the wines I loved was Nicolas Joly’s Coulée de Serrant, but I found his writings on the subject too esoteric. Then there was Rudolf Steiner himself. After a few attempts to read his writings, I was quickly cured of any desire to try again. After all, he died in 1925 and most of the agricultural writings I read are more likely to have been written in this century. Agricultural science has evolved a bit in the last 95 years. So, as I pursued biodynamics I relied more on working winegrowers than the writings of a long-dead philosopher, who was not even a farmer. The agricultural lectures, on which biodynamics was based, was a minor part of Steiner’s work. He only participated reluctantly and there were only eight lectures given over ten days. He died the next year.

The two conferences I attended really illuminated these two faces of biodynamics for me - the anthroposophical, “spiritual-science” side and, what I call, practical biodynamics. As I look at biodynamics, I see a framework that clearly has an effect on wine quality. We work within that framework as, at this time, we simply don’t know what parts of that framework work from those that don’t. It is our responsibility to add to this body of knowledge so that the next generation can build on the best practices and discard the worthless ones. To achieve that goal, at Troon Vineyard we are working with academics from Oregon State, the University of Oregon and Linfield College and with Biome Makers to build a database on the transitions in our soils, compost, plants, fermentations and wines as we convert from conventional to biodynamic regenerative agriculture. You can be a biodynamic farmer and not be a follower of Steiner.

For obvious reasons, the media loves to focus on the Steiner side of biodynamics. Let’s face it, it makes better copy than farmers simply seeking the secrets of naturally building the microbiome of their soils. Some writers don’t just focus on the more picturesque parts of the Steiner side of biodynamics, but go on the attack and lump all biodynamic farmers into the anthroposophical basket. A recent article, The problem with biodynamics: myths, quacks and pseudoscience by Joshua Dunning is just the latest in this group. On his site, he notes that he, “holds an undergraduate degree in Economics and Finance and a postgraduate MSc in Supply Chain Management from Aston University. My field of expertise lies in continuous improvement, I have worked for leading discount-supermarket chains, consulted to start-up tech companies, and am now employed by a leading UK automotive manufacturer.” I think we can assume this means he probably is not a farmer. As someone who spends most of his days on a biodynamic farm, I’d like to address some of the points he makes in his article. 

“My somewhat fierce opposition to Steiner and his quackery”  I don’t disagree much here. There is much not to like about Steiner. I would point out that in 1924 there was no shortage of quacks, many of whom were respected medical professionals. I’m no defender of Steiner, but judging people from one hundred years ago by today’s standards is difficult at best. However, Steiner’s racism can’t be ignored.

It seems even more unlikely that held static and unchanged that the proposed process would continue to offer the most effective form of agriculture for many decades to come. Most of what we call biodynamics today was created after Steiner died in 1925, just a year after he gave the lectures. It can be argued that Ehrenfried Pheiffer is the real father of biodynamics and it was his book Bio-Dynamic Farming that launched that concept to the world in 1938. After Pheiffer, there is a long list of people that have contributed to what is today known as biodynamics. Steiner himself would barely recognize biodynamics as practiced on commercial farms today. By the way, he probably never heard the word biodynamics.

“An example being the use of animal byproducts in biodynamics; why is the use of the horn insisted upon? Would a synthetic product be better? Why is this is not tested?” Actually there have been ongoing tests and some have been promising. At this point, the horns have been the most reliable, but it is reasonable to assume that someday they could be replaced by other containers. There is actually pressure from vegans to find alternatives. That said, the idea of a synthetic product runs contrary to the concept of building a natural system. We’re trying to use less plastic, not more. Besides, as the goal of making BP 500 is to collect fungi and bacteria, it is not unreasonable to assume that they would prefer natural materials.

“However, the advocation of pseudoscience erodes public understanding and appreciation for good science, discredits the work of serious scientists and makes it harder to encourage critical thinking.” True, except that biodynamics is now the focus of a lot of research. I would refer you to the scientists studying our vineyard. The fact is that soil microbiome and the mycorrhizal system is the hot topic of modern agri-science. Now that big money is involved, there is great interest in discovering those secrets and due to that, we will know a lot more about biodynamics in the coming decades. 

“It is advised that particular preparations are stirred for an hour in order to not only dissolves the substances but ‘more importantly, release the dynamic forces” We also make compost tea, a well-proven agricultural tool. To make that compost tea, you brew it for 24 hours with active aeration that encourages the microbiological life before application. Stirring BD 500 for one hour does exactly the same thing. One side of the biodynamic community may focus on “forces” but the other side is focused on microbiology. We also believe this releases dynamic forces, but those forces are fungi and bacteria.

“It’s difficult to find reliable estimates of the financial costs of converting to biodynamic, even trickier is establishing the cost variation between working organic and biodynamic.” Actually, the organic part is far more expensive than the biodynamic part. The biggest expense is the farm equipment - mechanical weed control, etc., but that is also required for organics. Compost tea brewers are expensive, but are not part of the biodynamic system. Compost is very expensive and time-consuming, but that too is part of organics. The actual biodynamic preparations are very inexpensive to produce. You have to be organic to be biodynamic, so the additional cost and time to be biodynamic are not significant. 

“However, there were no differences in several other variables measured, including pH, cation exchange capacity, moisture content, and ammonium, potassium, and phosphate levels. In contrast, researchers found that biodynamic preparations reduced both compost pile temperature and nitrate concentration.” The main difference between standard compost and biodynamic is that the biodynamic process does have lower pile temperatures. In fact, biodynamic compost is not considered compost by the USDA for this reason. The lower temperatures create the conditions for more robust microbiology in the compost, which would be reduced by the higher temperatures. The faulty thinking here is that the compost is used as a fertilizer, which is not its primary function. The goal of biodynamic compost and BP 500 for that matter, is to rebuild soil microbiome. It is primarily a probiotic, not a fertilizer. Vines do not require nutrient-rich soils. With a well established mycorrhizal community, they can easily extract all of their requirements without additional fertilizers.

“No differences were found in weed control using preparations 500– 508 or in cover, species richness, diversity, and evenness of weed species” Weed control? The preparations have nothing to do with weed control. Weed control is attained by mechanical methods and cover crop management.

“Addition of biodynamic preparations not only increases labour and materials costs but also widens the ecological footprint of the practice because of higher machinery use for applying the preparations.” As pointed out above, the actual costs of biodynamics over organics are minimal. As we are able to apply the biodynamic preparations 500 and 501 (the only BP preparations directly applied in the vineyard) using a small ATV and sprayer instead of a tractor it actually reduces tractor passes, soil compaction, and our carbon footprint. We can further reduce tractor passes by including barrel compost teas with our powdery mildew sprays. 

“On a total of 8 pages in Demeter’s biodynamic certification document, the regulator makes reference to cosmic influence and rhythm.” The American Demeter certification recommends trying to follow these rhythms - if possible. While it may be possible in your garden at home, it is not on a large commercial farm. In our view, the cycles of the moon are more a timepiece than a cosmic influence. These were the tools that ancient farmers had and they used the moon as a clock in the sky based on successes and failures that they had in the past. Perhaps there is a small edge to be gained here so, if possible, we’ll pick those days. If there is any chance of making better wine, no matter how small, we’re willing to give it a shot. Practically, it is impossible to run a 100-acre farm based on the moon and stars. If something has to get done we do it, no matter where the moon or planets are in the sky. There is only one body in the sky that totally guides our work - the Sun.

Mr. Dunning was inspired to write his article by his participation in a webinar panel. As useful as these events and conferences can be, I would suggest he spend some time on a commercial farm actually practicing biodynamics. He may well find that the actual practices don’t always line up well with the myths. 

I agree that there are many ideas that have crept into biodynamics over the decades that strain credulity and science. Indeed, pseudo-science and quackery are issues that I believe have held back the adoption of the many aspects of biodynamics worth investigating. Certainly, Steiner and devotion to him as a spiritual leader is also holding back biodynamics. The fact is that Steiner was anti-alcohol and the first vineyards that started farming biodynamically in Europe were rejected by the biodynamic community and for that reason formed their own organization - Biodyvin. I often think that may also become necessary in the United States.

Biodynamics is a process, not dogma. It is a search to find the natural systems that make your farm unique. Each individual farm has to find its own way. The structure of biodynamics is just a starting place. The ultimate expression of biodynamics is when you develop the ideal system for your farm. That system may not contain elements of what is known as biodynamics today and will almost certainly include your own discoveries. I have always considered attaining our Demeter Biodynamic® certification as the beginning, not the finish line. Perhaps certification itself is something you eventually go beyond as you discover your own answers.

There are many mysteries about how the microbiome of the soil works in harmony with plants. The science here is still young and much is not understood. To me, biodynamics honors those things we do not yet understand. Because we are still learning, it is not productive to label all things not understood as some sort of voodoo. We should be humbled by our ignorance and find joy in what we learn about nature as it is in that knowledge that we will find answers to so many of today’s issues. Some, but not all of those answers can be found in biodynamics.

I believe in elementals. They are the fungi and bacteria that make our soils live.            

Fun in the Cellar, Fun in the Bottle - Piquette!

OUTSHINERY-Troon-Piquette-2019.jpg

It was fun!

Browsing through my RSS feeds one morning I spotted an article about a type of wine called piquette. What was that? The article was about a piquette being produced by the biodynamic Wild Ark Farm in New York’s Hudson Valley. This, I thought to myself, looks like fun. I forwarded the article to Troon Vineyard’s winemaker, Nate Wall, with a simple note saying exactly that, “this looks like fun!” 

Nate obviously agreed as here we are one year later releasing our own 2019 Troon Vineyard Piquette!. I’m sure you’re asking the same question I had, “what is piquette?”

Only in recent history has wine become an elite product requiring certified sommeliers to guide you through encyclopedic wine lists. In the past, wine grapes were just another agricultural crop that required lots of sweat and delivered little reward. Farmers couldn’t (and still can’t) afford to waste anything. Winemakers would press off their best juice to use for wines they would sell, then re-hydrate the remaining pomace, add some sugar or honey, let it soak, and then ferment that for a daily quaff for their workers and themselves. Light in alcohol and lightly sparkling, piquette was frugal farmer fizz. Piquette is anything but a “serious” wine.

The trick here was that none of us had ever tasted a piquette. That’s a very odd experience as normally we would have tasted dozens of wines made by other producers as we tried to deeply understand a variety or blend before we launched off on our own project. Not this time. Nate put together a plan and off we went. 

That plan was to use the pomace from our whole-cluster pressed white grapes (marsanne and vermentino) and red grapes (tinta roriz, primitivo, tannat) destined for rosé. We also used pomace and juice from another new Troon Vineyard sparkling wine, Pét tanNat, a pét nat made from 100% estate tannat. A relatively small amount of water was added to the pomace that remained in the press and was allowed to soak overnight. Without any additions, we naturally achieved an alcohol of 10.5% - obviously, there was plenty of juice left in the press. Then the pomace was pressed again and the juice was collected in a stainless steel tank, where a native yeast fermentation easily started. When a small amount of sugar still remained in the fermenting juice, we quickly bottled it under crown caps to complete its fermentation in the bottle. What makes this tricky is that you have to bottle this type of sparkling wine right in the middle of harvest - a time of year that is already busy enough! On the day the wine is ready to be bottled, it has to be done right now, tomorrow will be too late. When fermentation completed we did a light disgorgement, only removing the heaviest lees so there is a light haze remaining. As you would expect from the red grape skins, there is a tannic edge to the bright, fruity flavors of our Piquette!, which is very different from our soon to be released pét tanNat. For me, it reminds me of some crazy combination of a fresh peach juice Bellini, cider and Cava - sparkling, bright fresh and fun.

Our 2019 Piquette!, Estate, Applegate Valley was fun to make and is equally fun to drink. What fun is that!

Please watch this video as Troon Vineyard winemaker Nate Wall describes how we made this wine:

Weed Slayer

UPDATE: Since I wrote this in February of 2020, Weed Slayer has been banned by USDA Organic and Demeter Biodynamic® Certifications for containing prohibited ingredients and is now the subject of lawsuits.


weed slayer.jpg

I can’t forget when I first saw the results after we applied a new organic herbicide based on clove oil and molasses called Weed Slayer. Put very simply; it worked too well. It worked like Roundup but smelled like allspice.

In the past, products that were approved to use on a certified organic farm never caused any worry about being too effective. Many barely worked at all. But those days are changing, and the effectiveness of organic vineyard applications is now quite impressive. I tend to worry if an organic product is almost as effective as the chemical options, as there may be something to worry about. Chaos theory is a real thing. There is always the chance that these newly approved organic products are good at one thing, but they are also doing damage in some way we never imagined. 

In the past, certified organic products always seemed to have friendly names...Regalia, Prevont, Clean, BioLink, and so on. Weed Slayer is not a nice name, but it certainly does what its name suggests. A natural plant-based herbicide derived from eugenol, an essential oil of clove, and molasses. How bad can that be? Theoretically, not at all, but you can’t help but worry. One thing for sure, if you apply it at the right time, it works.

Now Weed Slayer is on the fast track as the miracle weed control product for organic agriculture, I can’t but help to be concerned as there is so much we do not know when it comes to the living system of our soils. Everything we introduce is bound to have outcomes that we cannot predict - chaos theory. My concern is that a product that kills weeds (note that weeds are simply plants that grow where we do not want them) so effectively could be very well having an equally devastating impact on the fungi that make our soils live. I have no proof of this, but the microbiome of soil is a very delicate system that is easily disrupted. 

The question we should be asking is, what is so wrong with a few weeds? The solution is not Weed Slayer or finding something even better. The answer is learning to live with weeds. With proper farming, you no longer have weeds, just a cover crop that you have designed. No-till is the best form of weed control in a vineyard because you end up with no weeds. Once the plants surrounding your vines are there because you want them there - magically, the weeds are all gone. 

But nothing happens magically in agriculture. You have to work and plan over the years to achieve your goals. At Troon Vineyard, we are moving towards no-till as quickly as we can. The major impediment we face in moving to no-till is that our older blocks suffer from the Red Blotch virus. While there is yet no absolute proof of the vector that spreads this virus, the leading suspects are leafhoppers. Practicing a full no-till system in the infected blocks could encourage the leafhopper population. We need to take precautions not to spread the virus into our new blocks. So while aggressively working towards no-till in the newly planted blocks, we have to practice a modified approach in the existing blocks. That includes only tilling every other row and mowing. While working this hybrid system, Weed Slayer becomes a necessary evil, but certainly a far lesser evil than Roundup.

It just a few years, we will achieve our goal of no-till agriculture for the entire farm. In my view, the foundation of practicing biodynamics is the regeneration of the natural microbiome of your soils. No-till is the natural partner to biodynamic farming as few things are more disruptive to the mycorrhizal community in your soil than tillage. On top of that is carbon sequestration that no-till farms support. This alone is reason enough to transition your farm to no-till.

It is fascinating to watch how agricultural science is moving towards biodynamics, not away from it. Soil scientists are now focused on the microbiome. Articles on fungi are everywhere. Huge corporate farms profess to be practicing regenerative agriculture, though this is more lip service for marketing reasons. Wineries feel compelled to become “sustainably certified” so they can get a green-sounding logo on their label due to market pressures. The double impacts of academics and market pressure are forcing more-and-more producers to adopt greener methods. But this is not enough, and it is moving too slowly. You are not practicing regenerative agriculture unless you give up chemicals (Roundup being the most famous of these, there are many others), feed your soils via compost, and are working towards no-till. 

For us, using Weed Slayer is temporary. A means to achieve a larger goal. Even something that sounds as benign as clove oil and molasses, and is permitted under CCOF Organic certification, may have a negative effect on everything else that we have been working to achieve. It takes years to rebuild the mycorrhizal communities in your soil, and using anything that can disrupt that is a risk. I am very uncomfortable taking this risk, but the threat from the virus is also a reality. Finding the proper balance is a struggle. 

I am not picking on Weed Slayer here, it is a product produced by people trying to find a safe alternative to Roundup. Certainly, that is a worthwhile endeavor. My point is that all inputs can have unintended consequences. Less is more when it comes to farming. The fewer products we use the better.

Regenerative agriculture is not a goal you achieve, but an ongoing and never-ending process to work in harmony with nature. As we will never know all the secrets that nature is hiding from us, we can only strive to learn what the plants are trying so hard to tell us. We need to learn their language more than they need to learn ours. 

The Troon Vineyard 2019 Harvest Photo Album

Wine as a Spectator Sport

Yes, I was turned down by the Wine Spectator, they just don’t have the time or, apparently the funds, to taste one of our wines this year.

Hello Craig,

  • Thank you for your email and interest in submitting. Given tasting budgets, the small case production and editorial constraints, we will not be able to include this wine in our tastings this year. You're welcome to contact us again next year, with your new vintage, and we can consider the wine again at that time.

After five years of abstinence, I thought I would give the Wine Spectator another go. It was against my better judgement. After all, this is a publication that is focused on green-washed industrial wines. Larger producers with slick PR departments and large advertising budgets are are good to go. A wine with small production is simply an irritation for them. What you have to remember about the Wine Spectator is they’re not in the wine business, they’re in the magazine business. I have to agree with them, a three hundred case production of a viognier, marsanne, roussanne blend from a biodynamic vineyard in Oregon’s Applegate Valley is not going to sell many magazines for them. The publisher sees wine, spirits, cigars and now cannabis as simply as resources to be mined. Certainly they employ talented writers who are serious about their craft. It reminds of that old saw about Playboy Magazine, “I just read it for the articles.” Yes there are many good articles, but points are the real centerfolds and what sells the magazine.

This is why I have always been such an avid supporter of wine bloggers. First they taste wines like they were meant to be tasted. They take time with them, experience how they evolve in the glass and taste them with food. Wine bloggers are not wine spectators as they are fully immersed in the joys that wine can bring to life and communicate that energy to their readers.

Yes I know the Wine Spectator will claim they cover small producers and statistically I’m sure that’s true, but it’s also true they only do so when they feel it can be of benefit to them. Wine bloggers share their joy of wine, the Wine Spectator extracts joy and turns it into profit.

Thanks to the Wine Spectator for at least turning my samples down with an actual reply. Don’t worry, I won’t bother you again.

More Biodynamic Fake News...

Harvest 2018 at Troon Vineyard in Oregon’s Applegate Valley.

Harvest 2018 at Troon Vineyard in Oregon’s Applegate Valley.

Tired old canards. When will the media get on board with modern biodynamics? While the article Weighing Up the Value of Biodynamic Wine by Vicki Denig addresses valid concerns, once again the sources for the article are either misinformed or have an ax to grind. Here is a link to the original article:

https://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2019/04/weighing-up-the-value-of-biodynamic-wine?rss=Y

“Couple that with calendar-specific workdays and strict following of the lunar cycle, and even the smallest of vineyards would face significant time restraints and financial challenges. So when a sizeable estate decides to go biodynamic, is it actually achievable?”

“However, not all winemakers are convinced. In Crete, Giannis Stilianou, winemaker and owner of Stilianou Wines, explains that with larger properties, cultivating with biodynamic principles is nearly impossible, mainly because farmers are only permitted to execute vineyard work on a small amount of very specific days”

The Demeter standard for wines states, “Observation of the Biodynamic calendar is encouraged.” It does not demand only “calendar-specific work days or that “farmers are only permitted to execute vineyard work...on very specific days.” The statements above are false and following the biodynamic calendar is not required for Demeter Certification.

The work of all the biodynamic farmers I know is focused on regenerative agriculture. Their goal is to build the health of their soils and plants. In trying to follow the biodynamic calendar we are reaching for the very peak of quality. That extra edge that pushes our wines beyond just being delicious to becoming truly alive in the glass. If you can’t prune or pick on the ideal day due to weather and practical considerations you know that all of the other work you’ve done will still make exceptional wine. What we reach for by trying to do our work on certain days, by paying attention to the natural cycle of the Moon, is to go beyond simply delicious and make a wine that sings of the vineyard itself. A wine that is transparent and living.

“And for others, size isn't even the biggest issue. Stu Smith, partner and enologist at St. Helena-based Smith-Madrone Vineyards dug deep into the world of biodynamics – and still wasn't convinced. "I discovered that Rudolf Steiner had never been a farmer," he says, noting that Steiner went from student to agricultural theorist, without any experience in the field. Smith explains that when he'd challenge biodynamic farmers on their lack of trials and published results, their response was always that it's a belief system.”

Mr. Smith “discovered” that Rudolf Steiner had never been a farmer. Digging deep? An amazing discovery? I think not. Rudolf Steiner is famous for being a philosopher and founding the Waldorf schools, not for being a farmer, as a quick look at Wikipedia will show you. What we today call biodynamics was only outlined by Steiner in a series of lectures in 1924. He did not go from “student to agricultural theorist”, but gave the lectures at the end of his life at the request of a group of farmers. The modern practice of biodynamics has been built after his death on the experience and experiments of several generations of biodynamic farmers. None of the biodynamic wine growers I personally know consider biodynamic farming a “belief system”, but see it as a framework to build on with a goal of taking their farming to a new level. Contrary to what Mr. Smith may believe, Nicolas Joly is not your typical biodynamic winegrower.

“Smith also takes issue with what he deems to be close-mindedness amongst biodynamic farmers, from both large and small estates. "They are the only group out there that says 'our way is the only way, and everyone else is doing it wrong'. Organic and sustainable farmers don't do that, but biodynamic farmers do."

This, simply, is total bullshit.

“And when it comes down to it, Smith sees it all as a fast-track to making money. "There are so many wineries that need to find their place in the sun," he says, calling out the appeal of biodynamics to Millennial consumers. "In my opinion, it's a marketing ploy – do you see biodynamic carrots? Lettuce? Peaches? No. They're doing it in wine in America as a marketing concept so they sell their product easier and get a higher price for it."

Yes, Mr. Smith, you do see biodynamic carrots, lettuce, and peaches, just not enough of them. The reason you see few of these biodynamically certified fruits vegetables and wines is that practicing biodynamics is hard work and unlikely to reward with you with enough additional profit to justify the effort. You choose biodynamics because of a commitment to reach for something special. Demeter USA currently has certification protocols for Fruit and Vegetables; Nuts, Seeds and Kernels; Bread, Cakes and Pastries; Grain, Cereal, Tofu and Pasta; Herbs and Spices; Meat; Dairy; Oils and Fats; Sweetening Agents, Confectionary, Ice Cream, Chocolate; Cosmetics and Body Care; Textiles; Wine; Beer; Spirits; Cider and Fruit Wines; Infant Formula. It seems he is shopping in the wrong markets, perhaps he should give Google a try?

Then there is his “marketing ploy” statement, which any accountant for a biodynamic winery would get a big laugh over.

“Others think that many biodynamic practices are, frankly, bullshit.”

I'll tell you the real bullshit. It’s farming with chemicals that destroy the environment and cause cancer. It’s making boring industrial wine. If a little voodoo will save the planet, count me in. Voodoo is just what people call something they don’t understand.